Monday, February 29, 2016

Closer to the Beach

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 5

Gathered up our stuff once again this morning for our last move -- finally get to move into the apartment we booked in the first place. I'm beginning to feel like Goldilocks.  We don't have to check out here till 1pm so it was back on the walking path for us.

We did about a 4 mile loop this morning covering a new section of town. First it was up the beach - stopping at some of the plagues and historic sights along the way. We turned down the famous Ben Gurion Blvd. By the way, there are fresh juice stands here literally on every corner. Stopped into the Ben Gurion house.
In his will Ben-Gurion requested to bequest the house to the State of Israel. Three years after Ben-Gurion died, the Ben-Gurion law 1977 was enacted, which stipulates that house will be open to the public, and will serve as a museum in memory of Ben-Gurion and as a commemoration of his legacy, as well "as a Reading, Reviewing and Research center", as Ben-Gurion himself requested.
The house was opened to the public on 29 November 1974, and as of today, guided tours and symposiums are conducted in the house, with the purpose of depicting Ben-Gurion's character and life work as a leader. In addition, memorabilia, historical documents, and Ben-Gurion's titles awarded to him when he was prime minister are exhibited in the house.
Walked further down the boulevard and turned on Dizengoff  to the famous Dizengoff Square and fountain:
The "Fire and Water Fountain", also commonly referred to as the "Dizengoff Square Fountain", is a Tel Aviv landmark in the center of the Dizengoff Square. Dedicated in 1986, the fountain is a kinetic sculpture,the work of the Israeli artist Yaacov Agam.
The fountain was developed by Agam for ten years and is one of Agam's most famous creations. Agam has gained international recognition as one of the founders of the kinetic art movement. The fountain consists of an illusory dimension and a movement dimension, both typical to works of Kinetic art and Op art, which is achieved by the use of technology and by the observer's movement. The fountain is composed of several big jagged wheels, which were designed in the kinetic style (colored geometric shapes, which are perceived as different images from different angles). A technological mechanism is automatically activated at different times of the day and the night, turning the wheels on their hinges, injecting water upwards in various forms, spitting fire upwards and playing music.
Continuing on Dizengoff to Bialik Square - this is another famous landmark:
Bialik Square and Bialik Street has some of the best examples of the Bauhaus and Modernist buildings which make Tel Aviv the White City. These are one by one being painstakingly restored. 
 Our last stop was the Reuben Rubin Museum on Bialik Street:
The Rubin Museum is an artist-house-museum in the historical heart of Tel Aviv, formerly the home of the painter Reuven Rubin, where he resided with his family and worked from 1946 until his death in 1974. Constructed in 1930, the house on 14 Bialik St. opened to the public as a museum in 1983. A choice selection from the Museum's permanent collection of Reuven Rubin's paintings has been on display, replaced periodically by guest exhibitions focusing on the early period of Israeli art.
Heading back to the hotel, we admired  the many Bauhaus houses and some street art. Stopped into a gift shop and made a friend. As far as safety is concerned, we have not felt unsafe at all. There is really not a heavy visible security force. Yesterday we ran into an army group but that has been the most that we have seen so far.

Back in the room, we snacked on leftovers and packed up for an afternoon at the beach. It was an absolutely perfect day. In the 80s with a soft breeze. The sand is very fine and smooth - no rocks or pebbles. Water was about 68 degrees - refreshingly cool. And there is a whole lot to look at! You can people watch for days. Think the average age is around 26. We stayed until 4pm and headed back to check-in to our new room. Deja Vu!

The weather was just too good to stay inside. Decided to get dinner along the beach. Walked down to Fish Kitchen and had a lovely fish dinner. Still lots of activity out here at night. Bikers buzzing by and a lot of volleyball teams.

Time to call it a night.


Next time... Rabin Square

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 5








Sunday, February 28, 2016

More Memorials

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 4

Tried to go to our favorite salad guy last night but he was closed for Shabbos.  It was back to the Super Yuda. Nothing as helpless as aimlessly wandering the supermarket aisles not having a clue what anything is. We picked up a few things that we could recognize and did not involve cooking. Got it back to the apartment and made a "Jew-Pu" platter. Actually, rather good.

The construction started bright and early so I was immediately on the phone asking when our room will be changed. We are now in an ocean side apartment which has a great view and not quite so much noise.

We took off this morning and headed for Independence Hall. We watched a short film on the birth of Israel and the dream of Theodor Herzl for a Jewish state:
Independence Hall, originally the Dizengoff House (Hebrewבית דיזנגוף‎) is the site of the signing of Israel's Declaration of Independence. It is located on the historic Rothschild Boulevard in Tel AvivIsrael. From 1932 to 1971 housing the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, it is currently a museum dedicated to the signing of the Israeli Declaration of Independence and the history of Tel Aviv-Jaffa. .
We made our way back taking side streets and popping into shops and just talking with people. Everyone is very kind and friendly - not at all pushy. Tel Aviv is a rather bland looking city. Here and there you spot something colorful or a different piece of architecture but the norm is quite bland - so I haven't used the camera here as much as in Turkey or Egypt.

Got back to the hotel to see if our apartment was ready - Ha! One thing about this place, there is always free food or drink in the lobby. Today it was orange juice and honest-to-goodness NY Style cheesecake! Coffee, cappuccino, expresso, etc and cookies are available 24/7.

Since the room was ready, we took a stroll down the beach to check out the chaise rentals - in the hopes of actually having a beach day.  Two chaises and an umbrella are 30NIS (shekels) that's about $8 for the whole day. Not bad. Today would have been Jerry B's 71st birthday - so we did the usual ceremony in the Mediterranean Sea,  Passed yet another memorial site at London Square:

During the Second World War, while the British people bravely faced the savage Blitz of London, Jews who somehow managed to survive the horrors of the Holocaust made their way across the Mediterranean to the Land of Israel, despite British mandatory restrictions. 

Tel Aviv's "London Square" memorializes this tragic period in an impressive monument shaped like a ship, lined with photos, newspaper clippings and six walls upon which are engraved the names ships that brought over 12,000 Jews to the shores of Israel.

London Square was established on May 24, 1942. In 2003, a monument to the 
Ha'apala (the struggle against British immigration policy) was added to commemorate the struggle to bring Jews to the shores of the Land of Israel in spite of the British White Paper Policy forbidding it. Two of the ships memorialized on the walls of the monument – the Parita and Tiger Hill – were deliberately run aground, just opposite on the shores of Tel Aviv. 
After menu hopping our way down the beach, we lunched at the restaurant right next to the hotel. Turned out to be a great deal. A real abundance of food. Back at the hotel we found that the cheese cake had been replaced with corn soup. Guess we could have just stayed in the lobby. Looks like another light dinner - except tonight we get the sunset view!


Discovered the US Embassy is just around the corner. That's always good to know. Tomorrow is going to be a toss up between another walking tour or the beach. Maybe we can do both. We'll see. For now - Shalom

Next time... Closer to the beach..

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 4


Saturday, February 27, 2016

The White City

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 3

Had a nice walk last night to the Super Yuda supermarket for some salad mixings for dinner. Fortunately for us, this neighborhood pretty much stays open on the Sabbath. The traffic was quiet, though, and that made it quite pleasant to stroll around. Dinner and a movie and it was off to slumberland.

It was cool and foggy when we got up this morning. We planned a walking tour, with some input from our friendly receptionist yesterday. Programmed the GPS, ate breakfast, showered, and hit the road. Figured we would start out with the Museum of Art since it was a bit chilly out - it would be good to be inside.

Sabbath is a great day to be out on the streets. It is absolutely barren in the morning. No cars, no people, nothing. No problems getting to the museum - and we got a 50% senior discount. One perk to getting older. It is a fairly new structure and quite sprawling. Could not make heads or tails out of the floor plan that was provided. In fact, we got lost trying to get out of the place.

There was a floor of Israeli art as well as a floor for European art. Many interesting mixed media displays. One that really struck a chord was called While Dictators Rage:
Michal Helfman’s installation-cum-musical-performance, While Dictators Rage (2013, 2015), featuring large kites painted with faces pulling a range of expressions—from angry to solemn to shocked—hovering above a broken wall, while an exuberant score plays eerily. In a short talk, Helfman described the project’s inspiration as German-Jewish Surrealist Felix Nussbaum’s last painting, The Triumph of Death (1944), which he completed while hiding in Belgium several months before he was killed in Auschwitz. After some research, Helfman discovered that a piece of sheet music painted into Nussbaum’s composition represented The Lambeth Walk, a song from a highly popular 1937 musical “Me and My Girl,” used as a rallying cry by the British against the Germans during the onset of the Second World War.
We had the place pretty much to ourselves but when we finally finished, I guess Shul let out because all of a sudden we surrounded. Time to hit the road. We walked down to the Mann Auditorium and Habima Theater complex. Lots going on here. Kids show, people all over. One thing about Tel Aviv, people just walk around - everywhere! Many, many, little kids and many, many pregnant women - I guess they are securing the next generation. People seem genuinely happy and you get a sense that they really enjoy life. Everyone knows everyone else, so there is all this hugging and kissing going on whenever they meet. It's a bit hectic but it truly is a feel-good city.

Walking down the famous Rothchild Boulevard, we detoured a bit to go by the Great Synagogue. Completed in 1926, it is now only in use for a few and only on high holy days. It is in heavy disrepair. Continuing down the boulevard, we took in some of the buildings of the White City:
The White City (Hebrewהעיר הלבנה‎, Ha-Ir HaLevana) refers to a collection of over 4,000 buildings built in a unique form of the Bauhaus or International Style in Tel Aviv from the 1930s by German Jewish architects who immigrated to the British Mandate of Palestine after the rise of the Nazis. Tel Aviv has the largest number of buildings in the Bauhaus/International Style of any city in the world. Preservation, documentation, and exhibitions have brought attention to Tel Aviv's collection of 1930s architecture. In 2003, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) proclaimed Tel Aviv's White City a World Cultural Heritage site, as "an outstanding example of new town planning and architecture in the early 20th century." The citation recognized the unique adaptation of modern international architectural trends to the cultural, climatic, and local traditions of the city.
Time for lunch. For a Sabbath day when nothing is supposed to be open, everything was jumping and packed to the gills at this end of town. We stumbled upon Moses cafe - took a table outside, and was pleasantly rewarded with several delicious vegan options. Ordered the Missouri vegan burger - which was to die for! Finally a meal without humus! Finished lunch and continued our stroll to the Neve Tzedek district:
Neve Tzedek (Hebrewנְוֵה צֶדֶקlit. Abode of Justice) is a neighborhood located in southwestern Tel AvivIsrael. It was the first Jewish neighborhood to be built outside the old city of the ancient port ofJaffa. For years, the neighborhood prospered as Tel Aviv, the first modern Hebrew city, grew up around it. Years of neglect and disrepair followed, but since the early 1980s, Neve Tzedek has become one of Tel Aviv's latest fashionable and expensive districts, with a village-like atmosphere. Literally, Neve Tzedek means Abode of Justice, but it is also one of the names for God (Jeremiah 50:7).
Walked through the narrow streets past the trendy shops and cafes and made our way down to the beach. Things are getting quite familiar now. We thought about getting bikes to get back but decided it wasn't that far - so we kept walking. At one point, we took a seat -- another thing about Tel Aviv, you are never at a loss for a place to sit or even stretch out -- there are chairs, chaises, benches, etc all over the place. So we sat and people watched until it was time to return to the apartment.

Well, Shabbos is now officially over, so the traffic is starting up and tomorrow morning, I guess the construction will be back as well. Tomorrow is another big question mark. At some point, we will change apartments, other than that, who knows. Maybe the beach??  We walked so much today, it would be good to chill for a day.

Next time.... Chillin'

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 3




Friday, February 26, 2016

Taking in Tel Aviv

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 2

Sounds of construction got us up bright and early.  We took a morning walk along the beach - spotted
the marathoners. It wasn't really as big of a deal as we thought it was going to be - at least not at this end of the beach. Came back to the hotel to talk to the manager some more about apartments. We think we can change to an ocean front room on Sunday . That should help with the noise.

Headed out on foot to the Carmel Market. Same market atmosphere we are used to, except here they don't harass you. You either want to buy something or you don't! Geoff purchased his first and only kippa (yamulke). Made it out to the other side. Got down to the beach path and walked to Jaffa.
Jaffa  also called Japho or Joppa, is the southern, oldest part of Tel Aviv-Jaffa, an ancient port city in Israel. Jaffa is famous for its association with the biblical stories of JonahSolomon, and Saint Peter as well as the mythological story of Andromeda and Perseus.
We walked around the old narrow streets, in and our of shops - lots of art galleries and craftsmen. Stopped for lunch before heading down to Clock Tower Square. Geoff tried the traditional shakshuka dish. This is a couple of eggs on top of a tomato base with lots of seasonings, and of course lots of bread. The clock tower,unfortunately is under cover for repairs - like everything else. I put Geoff in it's place instead. This whole area is one giant flea market with many antiques and small cafes. Nicholas & Steve (antique dealer friends of ours) would be in heaven!!

We were now on the look out for a bike share stand that had some bikes. Found one not too far away and with the help of a couple of Canadians, we managed to figure out how to rent a couple of bikes. Biking is major in this part of the city. However, we noticed an awful lot of electric bikes. These are all pretty young people in a city with pretty much no hills - why the e-bike??? Anyway, we hopped on the bike path and off we went. For our free 30 minutes of bike time, we rode down to the Tel Aviv Port and then back a ways and re-docked the bikes around the marina. The paths were crowded with walkers, skateboarders, bikes, and things I don't even know the name of. Walked back slowly from the marina, taking in the sights.


Tel Aviv appears to be a marriage between New York and Miami. It is hip, relatively young and very busy. The beach was packed. Not sure what is going to happen on the Sabbath - which I think started at 2pm today (Friday). We have a Shabbat elevator in the hotel.
Shabbat elevator is an elevator which works in a special mode, operating automatically, a way to circumvent the Jewish law requiring observers to abstain from operating electric switches on Shabbat (the Sabbath). A non-Jew known as a Shabbos goy may be employed to press the buttons and hold the door for Jewish people, in buildings that do not have Shabbat elevators.
Geoff just performed his first duty as the Shabbos goy. We heard this banging from the hallway. Geoff went to investigate and sure enough two ladies were inside the elevator trying to get to the lobby. The elevator would not move and they could not touch the button. Guess the Shabbat elevator doesn't work as advertised. Geoff knew immediately what was going on - he opened the elevator and hit the lobby button! I knew he'd come in handy. Maybe he'll hire himself out.

It will be a light in-room dinner tonight. Not sure what tomorrow holds in store. Hopefully, we will sleep better.

Next time.... The White City

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 2

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Finally... Israel

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM:  Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 1


Ashy, Geoff, Susan & Jehan Sadat
Ashy brought the bottle of wine with him when he picked us up for dinner last night. After some confusion at check point charlie at the hotel, we were able to smuggle a cork screw out to open the wine in case the restaurant didn't have one. What an ordeal. We had a terrific meal and a great time for our last night in Egypt. Ashy finally scored the hot sauce but put it in a plastic soda bottle, we were afraid to pack that in the suitcase, so after dinner we walked to the mini-mart of the gas station and bought a yogurt drink. Got back to the room, drank the yogurt, and poured in the hot sauce. This stuff is hot! It is home made from Sudanese chili powder mixed with water and then boiled with oil. Ashy also got the pictures of Jehan Sadat and came also through with the Suez Canal coins. We are going to miss him.



Getting through the Cairo airport was like an Olympic event. These people line up the way they drive - mass chaos. It was a quick flight to Tel Aviv and we landed early. So the good news is that we made it here in one piece - the bad news is we got a bit shafted on our apartment rental - which I am pretty upset about. I had 6 nights booked and paid for 6 months ago. Five days ago the guy tells me he has to switch our apt for the first 4 nights - sorry. Too late to do much about it. Tel Aviv seems to be nothing but construction and half of it is outside our window. The apartment is fine but the noise is terrible and not much of the beach view that we paid for. Fortunately, the weekend starts soon and it should quiet down. I already got the owner to pay for our cab over here - now I am working on him paying for it when we leave Israel - since we spend our last night in this hotel. Another bubble bursting!! Not the welcome I would have liked. C'est la Vie!

We got somewhat settled and took a tour of the building. This is an apartment hotel and I guess some apartments are privately owned (like the one we are supposed to be in).  There is a laundry room, gym and sauna. Going outside, found the local supermarket and walked around in a daze trying to pick up essentials for the week. Got back, had a bite for lunch and trekked down to the laundry room. When the wash is done, we'll probably go exploring.

Our laundry ended up hanging on the balcony because the dryer doesn't work too well. Oy this place is going to take some getting used to. We ventured out and took a stroll along the beach. Once you get past the construction, it is truly beautiful. Lots of cafes and restaurants - prices ok to expensive. It appears we are back in the land of beauty parlors and nail salons. Don't see those in Egypt at all. Here there must be at least 3 of each on one block. Not to mention the "Dead Sea" beauty products. 

Decided to pick up some falafal and eat in the room. We are bushed. The place up the street was closing due to a wedding. So we just walked around the neighborhood getting acquainted with being here on our own. The streets are very lively at night. Stopped to get a wonderful salad to go and got directions to Gabay Falafal - best in town. The sandwiches are about $4.50 and you get a selection of a bunch of free stuff. We stocked up for the future.

GPS is working well, which will be good when we have to drive. Found our way back and were greeted with yet another manager type. She kept apologizing for the construction and the noise. It was happy hour and apparently they give you free beer. So I grabbed a couple to go with our dinner. Maybe it'll help with the noise.

Oh and by the way, tomorrow is a ginormous marathon event. All the streets are closed. They go right down the beach so we will be in the middle of it. We were hoping to get some bikes and bike down to Jaffa - doesn't look like that's going to happen. Maybe we'll just veg on the beach with the 40,000 other folks who will be here. The good news is that maybe the construction will be halted for the day. We've got our fingers crossed on that one.

Dinner was great. We are in for the night. I hope things look better in the morning after some sleep.

Next time... Taking in Tel Aviv

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM:  Israel - Tel Aviv - Day 1

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Last Day in Egypt

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 10

Before beginning today's recap, there are two things I left out yesterday. The area of the Mediterranean Sea near the Fort we walked around is the proposed site for an underwater museum. This project has been in the works on and off since 1996. There are many ancient Egyptian treasures down there that have either been discarded there by the Muslims or have been lost to the sea after many years.
Two years after the Egyptian revolution, in September 2013, UNESCO and Egyptian authorities rekindled the project once again, and a group of specialists and archaeologists selected the Mediterranean city of Alexandria as a location because of its priceless underwater treasures and relics.
Founded in 331 BC by Alexander the Great, the Alexandria bay holds such sunken treasures as Cleopatra's Royal Court and the Lighthouse of Alexandria, which is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
The other point I forgot to mention, is that we ran into the head of Medusa again. Just like Istanbul, she is underground - this time we saw her in the catacombs.
The façade of the main burial chamber is decorated with some Greek elements, such as the shield of the Goddess Athena, on top of which is the head of Medusa, and as we know, according to the ancient Greek myths, Medusa was able to petrify anyone who looked into her eyes. The representation of Medusa here was to protect the tomb.

We started today off with a visit to the Montaza Palace. Absolutely, perfect morning. We walked along the sea wall to watch the fishermen. What a spot to spend the morning. Next we drove up to the Palace area. There are two palaces here but the smaller one is closed for renovations.
The extensive Montaza Palace grounds first had the Palace, built in 1892 by Khedive Abbas II, the last Muhammad Ali Dynasty ruler to hold the Khedive title over the Khedivate of Egypt and Sudan. It was used as a hunting lodge and residence for his companion.
The larger Al-Haramlik Palace and royal gardens were added to the Montaza Palace grounds, being built by King Fuad I in 1932, as a summer palace. It is in a mixture of Turkish and Florentine styles, with has two towers, one rising distinctively high above with elaborated Italian Renaissance design details. The palace has long open arcades facing the sea along each floor.
President Anwar El-Sadat renovated the original Salamlek Palace as an official presidential residence. It was most recently used by former president Hosni Mubarak.
Our final stop leaving Alexandria was the library that stands where the ancient Alexandria library stood. Ash explained that they had hired a machine to do all the writing on the walls, but it wasn't going to get there in time for the opening, a month and a half away. So they hired stone cutters from all over upper Egypt to do it by hand. They were able to get the job done in only one month. The writings are a collection of many different languages. It is a spectacular building right on the sea.
The Royal Library of Alexandria or Ancient Library of Alexandria in Alexandria, Egypt, was one of the largest and most significant libraries of the ancient world. It was dedicated to the Muses, the nine goddesses of the arts. It flourished under the patronage of the Ptolemaic dynasty and functioned as a major center of scholarship from its construction in the 3rd century BCE until the Roman conquest of Egypt in 30 BCE, with collections of works, lecture halls, meeting rooms, and gardens. The library was part of a larger research institution called the Museum of Alexandria, where many of the most famous thinkers of the ancient world studied.
The modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina is trilingual, containing books in Arabic, English, and French. In 2010, the library received a donation of 500,000 books from the National Library of France, Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF). The gift makes the Bibliotheca Alexandrina the sixth-largest Francophone library in the world. The BA also is now the largest depository of French books in the Arab world, surpassing those of Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco, in addition to being the main French library in Africa. 
We are now back in the bus heading to Cairo. Stopped at the Dina Farms rest area. Very nice cafe and mini-market. Looked for hot sauce but still only found Heinz. Not going to give up the pursuit. We ordered our first feteer. Ash says they make the best around. Didn't really have anything to compare it to but it was pretty darn good. Time to get back on the road - about another hour to Cairo.

Back into the hustle bustle of Cairo. Stopped into a perfume and oil outlet to try to pick up some massage oil. No luck. Sorry Lucy, but the prices were just too steep and I just couldn't justify the purchase. The oils from Southeast Asia seemed more effective. But we tried. We were still on the hunt for the hot sauce. Ashy took us into a local supermarket - no photos please. That was fabulous, even though all we saw were rows and rows of Heinz products or it said "made in USA." So no luck there either. But walking through the supermarket was well worth the stop. Again our senses were overwhelmed with aromas, colors and people of all kinds. Ashy says he is friends with an owner of a Kosheri restaurant and that he makes his own hot sauce. He is going to try to get some from him. Big score if he succeeds.

He also has the photo of us with Jehan Sadat so hopefully we will get that before we leave. Plus, Ashy has a few Suez Canal commemorative coins that he might part with. Last  year they issued about 2 million coins to commemorate the new Suez Canal expansion project. Let's hope he remembers all this stuff.

This is our last check-in at the Mercure Sphinx Hotel. They all know us by now we have come and gone so much.  For our last Egyptian meal, we are going back to the Caviar restaurant  for dinner with our last view of the Pyramids. This is a Muslim restaurant, so no alcohol - but Ashy said he will send the office boy out to get me a bottle of wine so I can BYOB. This might be a first for these people.

I have talked about history and culture, it might be a good idea to talk about the political environment before we depart. In our observation it appears that most people seem to take a neutral position about their  government. When the revolution of 2011 came, it had an extremely negative effect on the tourist industry and it still hasn't recovered. Hotels, roads, tourist destinations, the Nile River boats, all suffer from the last five years of neglect. But everywhere we go people seem genuinely glad to see foreigners. Of course spending money makes them happier.

When the Muslim Brotherhood became a political power they did so, in part, by calling home ex-patriot radical Egyptians who were in Afghanistan, Syria, etc. Once the Brotherhood fell out of favor these supporters have gone "away". The country is still trying to find it's way and things are slowly returning to an equilibrium. Still there is a great wealth gap between the rich and everyone else. The middle class is very small. Within the last five years, they have had as many as four or five administration changes and it really doesn't seem to matter who gets in - the effect is still the same. The poor stay poor.

Hundreds of thousands of Syrian refugees have poured into Egypt and they are integrating well. They start off in low level jobs and with hard work they become successful business and shop owners. Some Egyptians would rather deal with the Syrian owned businesses because they are more honest and the quality of their work is better. A lesson is to be learned here.

Egypt has been a very kind country to us.  The people have been nothing but welcoming. We have learned and experienced so much. It is a shame so much fear is generated by the media prohibiting people from enjoying all this country has to offer. We would like to thank Sito Tours, who provided all the arrangements in Egypt and made sure we saw and did everything we wanted and more. We thank all of our Mohammad drivers and guides who helped us along the way. And, most importantly, we will especially miss our newly adopted son, Ashy. He has been so kind and patient and more than
accommodating. After all, we are not your average tourists. Ah, my wine has arrived!

Good-bye to the Land of the Pharaohs and thank you.

Next time... Finally...Israel

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 10

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

On the Road to Alexandria

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 9

Dinner at a local fish restaurant and then it was back to the Mercure Sphinx Hotel. We both slept like logs and woke up refreshed for a new day of touring. Found Ash in the lobby after our breakfast. We are spending tonight in Alexandria so we packed up again. On the way out, we tried to get some stamps. One thing about this country - you can't get change as a tourist. The ATM gives you large bills and it is very hard to get back exact change when you buy something. So if something is 15LE, more than likely it will cost you 20LE because nobody will give you back the 5 - especially if you are a tourist. Geoff wasn't able to get stamps but the man said he would mail them for us. Geoff paid him the money, so we'll see if they ever arrive.


We are back in the bus driving to Alexandria which is about a 3 hour drive. Just stopped at an Egyptian rest stop. Fortunately, Ash passed on the MacDonald's rest stop. Here we learned about feteer - a pizza pie shape dessert made of phylo dough. They only made a large size, so we passed. Ash says on the way back tomorrow there is another stop that will make small ones so we can try it. Also going to try to find some Egyptian hot sauce. All we have seen in the restaurants is Heinz! I will say again, it is GREAT having our own guide.

We entered Alexandria and it is more of the same street chaos, with lots of markets and traffic.Just to make the traffic even more confusing, there is a street car that goes down the middle of the road. The markets here are set up like they are in Vietnam, everything has its own section of town. Hardware, lumber, auto parts, even underwear.

Our first stop was the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa (meaning "Mound of Shards") is a historical archaeological site located in AlexandriaEgyptand is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages.
The catacombs lie on the western necropolis of Alexandria and consist of three levels cut through solid rock, the third level being now completely underwater. The catacombs have a six-pillared central shaft which opens off the vestibule. On the left is a triclinium, a funeral banquet hall where friends and family gathered on stone couches covered with cushions, both at the time of burial and also on future commemorative visits.
Pompey's Pillar was next of the tour:
Pompey's Pillar is a Roman triumphal column in AlexandriaEgypt, and the largest of its type constructed outside the imperial capitals of Rome and Constantinople. The only known free-standing column in Roman Egypt which was not composed of drums, it is one of the largest ancient monoliths and one of the largest monolithic columns ever erected.
Back in the bus we made our way through the busy streets down to the Mediterranean Sea to take a look at the Fort.of Qaitbay, which sits on the site of the ancient lighthouse.
The Citadel is situated at the entrance of the eastern harbour on the eastern point of the Pharos Island. It was erected on the exact site of the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria, which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The lighthouse continued to function until the time of the Arab conquest, then several disasters occurred and the shape of the lighthouse was changed to some extent, but it still continued to function. Restoration began in the period of Ahmed Ibn Tulun (about 880 AD). During the 11th century an earthquake occurred, causing damage to the octagonal part. The bottom survived, but it could only serve as a watchtower, and a small mosque was built on the top. In the 14th century there was a very destructive earthquake and the whole building was completely destroyed.
We took in the sights along the water walk. It was a beautiful day - considering Ash told us it usually rains in Alexandria. Everyone was having a great time. He took us to a special place for a fresh fish lunch - caught right there in the sea. Great lunch.  Some more walking and it was back in the bus to find the hotel. After much discussion and a couple of u-turns in this horrific traffic, we have made it to our resting place for the night. Our room is wonderful and the view is spectacular!

For tonight's dinner, we decided to stay in the hotel and have an Egyptian pizza.  We were just to
tired to walk around. I enjoyed my very popular Stella beer, while Geoff got a taste of the even more popular local Egyptian beer - non alcoholic. Did I happen to mention that sailing down the Nile with a mostly Muslim population, was a bit different. Another interesting tidbit is that in every hotel room there is an icon located somewhere depicting the direction of Mecca, so that they will know which to face for prayer. Our Istanbul hotel room came equipped with a Quran and a prayer rug.

We spend some time in Alexandria tomorrow morning and then it is back to Cairo for our last Egyptian night!

Next time... All roads lead to Cairo

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 9

Monday, February 22, 2016

Abu Simbel

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 8


Very long day today. We are now traveling back to our Cairo hotel from the airport. And, yes, we are stuck in traffic. I think we will stop for dinner before checking in - so busy with flights today, we haven't eaten since breakfast.

We were met at 8:30 by a new guide to take us to the airport. It turned out that the later flight worked out much better. Not having to get up at dawn was a god send this morning. The flight barely had anyone on it and there was no one at the Temples.  If there were a dozen people, there was a lot. Apparently, there was a sand storm that prevented a lot of people from making this important journey. Plus, it was cloudy at sunrise, so those who were there did not get to see this amazing sight.
It is believed that the axis of the temple was positioned by the ancient Egyptian architects in such a way that on October 22 and February 22, the rays of the sun would penetrate the sanctuary and illuminate the sculptures on the back wall, except for the statue of Ptah, the god connected with the Underworld, who always remained in the dark. People gather at Abu Simbel to witness this remarkable sight, on October 22 and February 22.
These dates are allegedly the king's birthday and coronation day respectively, but there is no evidence to support this, though it is quite logical to assume that these dates had some relation to a great event, such as the jubilee celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of the pharaoh's rule.
Landed early and again another Sito representative was there with a bus. This bus was shared with the handful of folks who were on our flight. So we toured around with some of them. Actually met a mother and daughter traveling together from Franklin, TN - that's where Geoff's sister lives - small world. Since it was the day of the festival, we were greeted at the airport by some official shaking hands and giving out magnets.
Standing by these colossal structures is very humbling.  The story of these two temples is another amazing tale. Ramses II just couldn't get enough of himself!
Great temple of Ranses II
Small Temple of Neferarti

The twin temples were originally carved out of the mountainside during the reign of Pharaoh Ramesses II in the 13th century BC, as a lasting monument to himself and his queen Nefertari, to commemorate his victory at the Battle of Kadesh. Their huge external rock relief figures have become iconic.
The complex was relocated in its entirety in 1968, on an artificial hill made from a domed structure, high above the Aswan High Dam reservoir. The relocation of the temples was necessary to prevent their being submerged during the creation of Lake Nasser, the massive artificial water reservoir formed after the building of the Aswan High Dam on the Nile River. 
Tour guides at the site relate the legend that "Abu Simbel" was a young local boy who guided early re-discoverers to the site of the buried temple which he had seen from time to time in the shifting sands. Eventually, they named the complex after him.
Had time for a quick cup of coffee before heading back to the plane. Some high Aswan official was on our flight to Aswan so it was filled to the brim with security. We had a short wait at the airport but we soon boarded another plane to Cairo. It was good seeing Ash's face on returning.

Looking forward to dinner and a good sleep.

Next time... On the road to Alexandria

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt - Day 8







Sunday, February 21, 2016

Aswan

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt Day 7

Geoff is now a Nile cruise celebrity, having won the great potato race last night! We went down to
the lounge just to take a peak at the festivities. Ash was already there and we were able to find some seats with him. Before the dancing begins, they play some games - one is like musical chairs, one is like hot potato only with a water bottle, there were a couple more. Geoff got volunteered for the potato race - where they tie one potato around your waist and it dangles down to push the potato on the floor to the other side over the edge. I pushed Ash to go up there with him. He went reluctantly, I guess he knew what was coming. What a riot!!  And when the old white guy won, the crowd went wild. Going to breakfast this morning, everyone was smiling and coming over to us - calling Geoff the champion. Last night, we were the only "foreigners" in the lounge - I think all the Egyptians really got a kick out of us.

This morning we visited the ancient Granite Quarries and the enormous unfinished obelisk
which lies still attached to a great mass of granite. Remarkable how they cut these giant slabs in place.  Then had to carve a path through the quarry and wait for the Nile to rise to help life it down the river.

Yesterday when we were talking with Ash, I had said something in Yiddish. He was curious about what it was - so we talked a bit about languages. He said he should be taking a lecture from me. So today while we were walking around the quarry, I mentioned another Yiddish expression and Ash immediately took out his notepad and pen (which he hasn't had all trip) and started taking notes. Geoff joined in as well. Now Ash writes down anything we say that he's never heard of. I think he just loves to soak up as much information as he can.  He is trying to work with a television station to put together a tourism video. I hope he succeeds.

Moving on from the quarry, we drove over the Old Dam built by Mohammad Ali and then visited the new High Dam which was built in the 1960's. Before the dam the Nile flooded every summer - making the land fertile but also doing destruction as well.
The Aswan Dam is an embankment dam built across the Nile at AswanEgypt between
1898 and 1902. Since the 1960s, the name commonly refers to the Aswan High Dam. Construction of the High Dam became a key objective of the Egyptian Government following the Egyptian Revolution of 1952, as the ability to control floods, provide water for irrigation, and generate hydro electricity were seen as pivotal to Egypt's industrialization. The High Dam was constructed between 1960 and 1970, and has had a significant effect on the economy and culture of Egypt.
Next we took a motor boat over to the  Philae Temple. This giant structure was moved from its original spot because of the construction of the dam. We heard that as we were coming ashore, Mrs. Sadat and her two daughters were just leaving. Maybe we will run into them at our next stop.
Philae /ˈfli/ (GreekΦιλαί Philai; Ancient EgyptianPilakP'aaleq; Arabicفيله‎  Egyptian Arabic: [fiːlæ]) is currently an island in the reservoir of the Aswan Low Dam, downstream of the Aswan Dam and Lake NasserEgypt. Philae was originally located near the expansive First Cataract of the Nile River in southern Egypt, and was the site of an Ancient Egyptian temple complex. The serapids and the surrounding area have been variously flooded since the initial construction of the Old Aswan Dam in 1902. The temple complex was later dismantled and relocated to nearby Agilkia Island as part of the UNESCO Nubia Campaign project, protecting this and other complexes before the 1970 completion of the Aswan High Dam.
One observation throughout these temples is that there is a lot of desecration to the faces of the godsand kings. This was primarily done by the Christians when they converted the temple to a church. Not unlike what the Muslims did in Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. They covered up all of the mosaic Christian saints with plaster. Such destruction of such beauty -- it boggles the mind.

A quick stop back at the ship and we were off again for a walk into the town of Aswan. This consisted of a train station and, of course, a market. More great sights and I really wish you could smell what we smell. The spices and cooking aromas are fantastic - especially before lunch. Which is now. Really going to miss the food on this ship. Although it is a dieter's nightmare - lots and lots and lots of carbs. But they do great things with eggplant!

Spent about an hour or so on the top deck before meeting Ash for our afternoon excursion to a
Nubian village. Another boat ride and the scenery was amazing. I have never seen dunes so high. At the village, we entered a typical style house. The Nubian people worship the crocodile and keep them in their homes - aging from very young to very old - so there is always a constant flow. I have to say that it was pretty sad to see these poor animals caged up in such small spaces. Plus, the big ones can eat more than the whole family. What is the point? Hang an icon like everyone else!

Anyway, we sat and had tea and some bread, which is baked in the sun not an oven, with some dipping stuff and halavah. Included in the price of admission, I got a couple of henna tattoos. The atmosphere here is extremely dusty with a haze over everything. We left the house and walked along the village getting back to our boat. The ride back was windy and chilly.

As soon as we got to our dock, Ash got a call from Egypt Air, they want to change our flight to Abu Simbel tomorrow morning. Apparently, tomorrow is a very special day at the temple. The sun only hits it twice a year and tomorrow is the second of those days. We did not know this when we booked it. More details about Abu Simbel to follow tomorrow. But, needless to say, it is going to be very crowded on this sacred day.

After dinner, Ash explained that our flight was moved from 6:55am to 10am. The good news is we do not have to get up at the crack of dawn. The bad news maybe that we might miss the sun hitting the temple. It is a very busy day tomorrow - flying from Aswan to Abu Simbel for a quick run to the temple then back on the plane to Aswan where we transfer to go to Cairo. Should be back in Cairo just in time for rush hour. Ash is not coming with us to Abu Simbel, but we have agents from Sito Tours during our whole junket and we meet up with Ash again at Cairo airport - hopefully. Ash just went out to buy us a sim card for our international phone so if we need to we can call him. I sure hope this all goes smoothly. I also hope it is worth it! We'll know tomorrow.

Next time.... Abu Simbel

TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM: Egypt Day 7